SV Ostinato: Cape Wrath to the Orkneys

July 10 - I have to admit that while the option of rounding Cape Wrath to the Orkneys from Scotland's west coast has always be an option on the table, I didn't consider it a serious one. Really...why would I go somewhere called "Cape Wrath". Nope, don't think so. So you can imagine how surprised I was when I agreed that we would head that way. What was I thinking!

Actually, the weather window was so good that it would of been foolish not to move north vs the long and strenuous trip back through the canal. Saying that, I have to admit I felt a bit nervous as we prepared to leave Portee for Kinlocbervie located 15 miles south of Cape Wrath which would be our last port of call on Scotland's mainland. It was forecasted to be dead calm but the winds had already piped up a bit as we slipped off the mooring ball. So much for forecasts.

Departing Portee

Even though days are long up here, we raised the sails and crept out of the anchorage early for the 70 mile run north. As we moved away from the surrounding cliffs, the winds calmed and the fog slowly descended wrapping us in a white mist for much of the morning. The day ended up being a motor sail the entire way. We passed a few boats heading south but again felt quite alone on our quest north.

The fog slinks down the mountain

July 10 - 58.27N 5.03W

Tied up at Kinlocbervie

Kinlocbervie is a small fishing village made up of a very small grocery and one restaurant/hotel. There were only 2 other boats on the visitors pontoon, which is good because there is only space for 3 visitors. That space was right in the middle, of course. King did one circle that would of been perfect had I had fenders and lines out on the port side. The actual landing was not so pretty so we got to meet our new neighbors quickly. While running around positioning fenders, I discovered one I had neglected to put one away the day before when we topped off the fuel tanks. The fender's nice new cover I had recently put on was hanging limp in shreds. It had dragged along in the water all day. So much for first impressions. Marina fees are put in an envelop and popped in a mail slot at the Harbor Master's Office located about a block away in what had apparently been a rather large commercial fishing operation at one time. We walked the "town" in about 15 minutes from one harbor to the next. The marina offers 2 nights for 1 but even King couldn't be tempted to stay. We will be going through some serious rips in the approach to the Orkneys which will be best if done at slack tide so departure was set for 8:00 a.m. to align with Orkney's tides. Weather continues to look calm and I'm feeling much better about the sail tomorrow.

Beautiful morning as we departed Kinlocbervie

July 11- Again we raised the sail but kept the engines in gear to get us through the calm, glassy seas. As if to tease us, just as Cape Wrath lighthouse came to view, the fog completely covered her from our view. The fog lifted again just as quickly once we had moved north of the huge rock face. Even in those light conditions, I could feel myself relax once she was behind us. The North Atlantic had turned into a milk pond and our only company was Puffins, Razorbills, Gannets and a Golden Eagle that soared by. We also saw the back of a whale surface as we neared the Orkneys. All went well until we were about 5 miles from the way point where we would enter Eynhallow Sound for our final destination of Kirkwall. Just as we were thinking about bringing the sail down the engine died with a thud. Oh good grief! Ostinato had snagged a crab trap. King and I are still at odds as to who was on watch. Obviously, no one, which was the problem. Going through the narrows with one engine didn't seem like a smart option so once again, for the fourth time since entering Scottish waters, King donned his wet suit and jumped overboard. The difference being this time we were floating around in the North Sea instead of being tied up snugly to a dock. I think he set some kind of speed record for unwrapping the prop. He was back on board and we were underway again in ten minutes flat.

Light house on Cape Wrath is barely visible in the center

While Cape Wrath was the first of the crossing trials, the next was the narrows. If the pilot books hadn't already grabbed my attention the chart plotter certainly weighed in with large warnings across the screen that yelled "DANGER!" all over the area we were about to cross. Oh what fun. While we had missed slack tide, we had little wind and we were moving with the tide so no problems. But what a tide it was. Ostinato zipped through the area topping out at 12.2 knots. We were tied up to the dock safe and sound by 10:00 p.m. with plenty of daylight to spare. Yea! Ostinato is the first American boat to arrive this year.

July 12 - The Orkneys are small but jammed packed with historic sites so King and I have spent several days traveling the island by bus in search of standing stones and ancient Neolithic villages. Our weather window finally gave up the ghost and we have been pinned to the dock now for four days with 35 knot winds and white caps in the protected harbour. It appears that it will be at least another three days before we see any relief. The next planned destination is the Shetland's with an overnight stop in tiny Fair Isles. Another two long days.

We have heard from another member of our small winter community. Paul, Sima and the wee ones onboard Leander are in Wick and heading this way. While I'm hoping they stay put during this blow, it would be so great to visit with them before we leave.