Kingsley and I have decided instead of sailing Ostinato back across the pond, to ship her using Sevenstar Yacht Transport. We heard that you can sometimes ride along and decided it would be a great adventure, plus put us in St. Thomas when she arrived without worry of delayed flights or late ships. Once our ship was known, our contact at Sevenstar petitioned the captain on our behalf to get his OK. He said yes! A last minute request from the company for documentation of good health put us in a bit of a tizzy but everyone came through and we were able to get a final approval two days before the ship arrived in Genoa.
Ostinato was scheduled for loading on the ship that would carry her across the Atlantic at 1 p.m. on November 26, then it was changed to the 25th at 11 a.m. Wait, loading times are supposed to always be late, not early! On the 24th, a late night email arrived announcing the request of Ostinato's presence at 9:15 the next morning. The bad news was the notice went to King’s junk mail. The good news is that just before we turned in for the night he found it.
The day before, we moved Ostinato around to a side tie position in the marina and paid our marina bill so we were as prepared as we could be. No lazy line prop wraps or crazy cross winds would delay us today. All major work tasks completed and everything except water and power lines stowed away. Skies were clear but the winds had the typical Genoa winter bluster. Last minute chores were disposed of quickly, breakfast eaten and gate key fobs returned to the office. It was time to cast off.
Ostinato’s bow was pointed out of the marina and the lines stowed. King maneuvered us around the first of several cruise ships being towed into port and then took a sharp turn to starboard which would lead us to Eritrea berth, our destination.
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| Schippersgracht, our home for the next couple of weeks |
We arrived only 10 minutes early but it was clear it would be a wait. (Really.... now we wait!) The yacht ahead of us was just getting settled into the straps that would haul her aboard. The delay was OK considering we got to watch what was once Humphrey Bogart's prized position, Santana, be gently lifted aboard. We did circles until Ostinato’s turn came an hour later. Fenders were placed from bow to stern along Ostinato's port side and King sidled us along side the Schippersgracht. My job was tossing a bow and stern line over my head up to the ships crew. It took me two tries on each line to finally get them high enough to catch but the crew was patient and encouraged each effort with a “well done”. Good Behaviorists. I liked these guys already. Once attached to the ship, the crew went to work. Long yellow straps were tossed onto Ostinato's deck, followed by men in orange jumpsuits descending down rope ladders. A large crane attached to the ship began to positioned itself above us and a diver slipped into the cold inky water from a small boat that had pulled in behind us. Everyone moved with a well practiced precision and we did our best to just stay out of their way.
The Sevenstar Load Master was the same one that had choreographed Ripple Effect's loading in October. His calm, demeanor and expertise, along with that of the Schippersgracht's crew made the experience a WOW adventure vs the typical tension you usually have with even a simple haul out. We were suddenly moving gently out of the water and up the side of the ship. As had happened on Ripple Effect, we were asked to climb over the ship’s railings before Ostinato reached the top deck and shown where we could watch the rest of the show on deck. I’ll let the photos tell the rest.
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| These guys made it look so easy |
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| No, we did not have to climb the ladder! |
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| All OK with the straps! |
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| As Ostinato is flying in the breeze, the next yacht is lining up for her turn |
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| Lots of room behind Ostinato yet to fill. Our cabin is on the 5th deck on the port side. |
Once settled on the deck, it was time to meet the Captain. He welcomed us aboard along with making sure we understood the facilities were basic, providing details of the trip, our cabin and when meals were served. We could move aboard any time. We decided now was as good a time as any. The rest of the day was spent dragging suitcases, junk food and pillows from Ostinato to our tiny cabin, five flights up with no elevator (.....this was amazing since King typically rejects any hotel room above the ground floor that doesn’t have a lift). After not doing much walking up and down steps, this would take some getting use to. What really sealed the deal was our first lunch aboard. Spring soup, baguette, vegetable salad, rare beef filet, green beans w sautéed onions, french fries, white layer cake. We returned to our cabin and took a nap! I'm in the top bunk.
In the afternoon, we left the ship and the rest of the day was taken up with strolling around an art show, trying to get our fill of Italian coffee, wandering winding streets, money exchange and getting our first stamps in our new passport as we were stamped out of Italy. Enough for one day.
November 26
The crew is still loading yachts today so right after breakfast King and I decided to head to town again. We walked through the shipyard like we knew what we were doing and found the bus stop. Still unsure of the date we would depart, it was now or maybe never to get last minute errands done. We had a torn 10 Euro bill and learned that the only way to replace it was at the Bank of Italy…before noon. The number 3 bus took us to the Central train station where we picked up the subway. The bank was off the square with the large fountain so easy to find. We were met at the door with a grim guard with a machine gun. “What was our business at the bank” he asked. Or, at least that's what we thought he asked. King showed him the torn bill. He nodded and indicated we were to go to teller numero quattro (#4). Inside, we were met by another guard, also sporting a machine gun. He gave us the once over but apparently he did not consider two over 65 Americans much of a threat as he let us pass without comment. There was no waiting lines at this bank (no wonder!) so our business was finished quickly and we were out of there before anyone could change their minds. Next stop, the Coast Guard station. King had decided it was important that we turned in our Constituto which we were given by the Coast Guard when we arrived in Sardinia. Let me just say, this was not a good idea. It took 4 levels of staff for one to finally say, “yes, we did not check in appropriately in Elba AND mainland Italy but these old fools are leaving so take the paper and let them go…vs arrest them, fine them or both!…..Thank you. Whew! It was time to head back to the ship so we didn’t miss lunch!
Later that afternoon, we decided to go back into town for a walk around Genoa’s winding streets one last time. We negotiated our way outside the docks dodging large trucks, watching for trains and finally checking out at the front gate to ensure we would be allowed to return. We again headed to the main square. The only goal, to explore a neighborhood that we hadn’t seen before. The wandering took us past Christopher Columbus’ birth place and up a narrow road which bought us back to the square again. The second try successfully led us past a small cinema we had never seen and the aroma of lovely pizza permeated the air. We took a seat at a table outside a small cafe just down the narrow ally in hopes that the smell was coming from there, but no. It was, however, a perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine and reminisce about our time in Genoa.
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| The piano player's grandfather gave us a sketch he had completed of his son and grandson |
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| Beautiful music greeted us as we slipped into the art shop |
November 27
The loading continued this morning. The largest, a 90 ft., 160 ton motor yacht. It required 2 cranes working in tandem to get her settled into her cradle, a tricky maneuver. Our cabin gave us front row seats while keeping us out of the crews way. In between boat liftings we would return to Ostinato to pick up additional items that we determined we just couldn't live without. The Captain had not only given us free movement about the ship but also to return to Ostinato whenever we wanted throughout the voyage.
For our last night in port, Scot, an American who was also shipping his Crealock 40 back to the State’s, had just arrived back to the marina from his home in California. He was accompanied by Bo, a friend who offered to come along as a last minute adventure. I do so love “boat people”. Scot was using another company to take his “baby” to Fort Lauderdale and had finally received his shipping date. We met for drinks near the marina to share our experience and then walked to our favorite pizza place, Salvo's, where we shared pizza, wine and that special comradery we have been so lucky to find along the way. (Note: Scott eventually changed to Sevenstar after his dates were delayed several times and he was bumped off the ship the day before his assigned loading time.)
November 28
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| Amazing what these little tugs can pull! |
breakfast and climb the final set of steps just outside our door. The ship's huge engine came on during breakfast and has quickly become background noise. A local Pilot has magically beamed himself aboard the ship and he and the Captain watch the crew as they prepare to cast off. A tug that has attached itself to our stern sits at attention ready for instructions. The Pilot gives a few quiet words which are quickly repeated by the First Officer who has the helm and we slowly move away from the concrete dock. The ship is backing out. Its a very tight squeeze because there is a breakwater directly behind us. I hold my breadth! From a deck off the Bridge, the ships stern looks like we are only inches from the seawall before the Pilot gives additional instructions and we pull away. I think it must be just from my view point but later the Captain also agreed it was a bit close.... but nothing touched. The crew continue to prepare the ship for the journey as the First Officer navigates to open waters. As quickly as the Pilot had appeared, he disappeared again and the tug motored away. Goodbye Genoa! We are on our way! Speed 18 knots, skies clear, seas calm. Perfect.
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| King - dreaming he's Captain |
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| A tight squeeze but never touched! |
We moved down the coast of Italy, slipped between Corsica and the French coastal city of Toulon just as the sunset.
November 29
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| Mallorca on our port side |
The weather continues to be cool with mild winds from the east and calm seas. We pass a few fishing vessels but only one sailboat. It’s getting late in the season for them. By sunset we are just off the coast of Cartagena. King sends a “hello” to friends in the Cartagena marina where we over wintered last year as we motor past. Schippersgracht continues through the Mediterranean Sea toward the Straits of Gibraltar. ETA 8 a.m. tomorrow. Perfect!
So far, I have had no problems with sea sickness. I started taking my nausea meds the night before we left Genoa and I limit reading…..and typing. My equilibrium like neither activity on a boat, riding in a car or a plane. I seem to be able to walk about the ship with no adverse reactions and, unfortunately, my appetite remains as hardy as a teenage boy. Its been a very smooth ride so far and not being responsible for the cooking is a real plus. We get outside for a bit of fresh air each day. This includes a stroll to the bow to check on Ostinato.
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| Temps were a bit cool on deck |
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| The bulbous bow underway |
The Captain informs us that clocks will be moved back every other day for the rest of the ride to St. Thomas. A friendly reminder on the white board just outside the mess greats us on each morning of the event. My body wants coffee as soon as I awake in the morning which gets earlier and earlier. I come to loath “fall back” days.
Clocks moved back 1 hr.
November 30
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| Charts on the Bridge show our path from the Med to the Atlantic |
I crawl out of the top bunk to pull back the curtains to discover another beautiful morning. Last night was the first of 6 one hour time “fall backs” that would occur across the Atlantic. Neither of us slept well. You can see the coast of Morocco on our port side at sunrise.. We are still a few hours away from Gibraltar. Time for a leisurely breakfast before we climb to the bridge for what we hope will be a glimpse of The Rock. But it was not to be. We motored down the center of the gateway into the Atlantic with Morocco on one side and Gibraltar on the other. Morocco is bathed in sunshine while Gibraltar is draped in fog and rain. Oh well. Glad we had taken the time to visit by car.
Life aboard is getting to be routine. There are 18 aboard, including us. I am the only women. King and I eat with the Officers. There are two tables. Most nights we have a table to ourselves. Family style meals are served at 07:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m…..or for the nautical types: 0730, 1230 and 1730. The crew are served their meals 30 minutes before the Officers. The main meal is at 12:30. It includes a soup, salad, bread, main, dessert and cheese. I finally had to forgo evening meals if I didn’t want to be off loaded like one of the yachts. King, who is not a soup fan has eaten
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| Sue picking up some cooking tips from the Chef |
The officers are Dutch, Russian, Estonian and one from the Philippines. The Chef is from the Philippines, as is the crew. Everyone speaks English. All have been extremely nice but it is not their jobs to wait on us or entertain us so we typically only see them at meals or when we hike up to the bridge to check on the weather or to pick up a copy of the daily news. King has been able to connect with some during that evening meal when I take a pass.
December 1
Our first full day a sea….seven more to go. We play a couple of games of Rummy-O (aka rummy cube) and continue to explore the ship. Today, we find the laundry room. Everyone does their own, a first come first serve set up Three washers and three dryers with one of each set up for work clothes. It is your typically laundry room with signs to hang on the dryers that say “Please Put Me In The Dryer”. Seems like no matter where you are, getting your laundry out in a timely manner is a problem. King has asked several times when I plan to do laundry and I have replied he is welcome to do it whenever he wants! (Editor's note: She obviously is still feeling pretty good at this point.)
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| I'm sure I won this game! |
King returns to the cabin this afternoon with news that we might, just might have Internet late this afternoon as we pass the island of Gaula which is part of the Madeira's. We see signs of land just before sunset but a signal is slow to reach us so we venture up to the bridge to see if a little more height might help. Finally, the dings of 24 hours worth of emails stream into our little machines. We bid the Officers on duty a quick goodnight as we return to our cabin to get out a few of our own messages. As we enter, King’s phone rings……its Bill in Shell Point! We quickly catch up on SP news and then call our daughters before we go dark again.
We have started watching movies off of our hard drive on the computer after dinner. The movie tonight was: The Reader
December 2 - 2543 Miles To Go
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| The crew decorated for Christmas! |
We have been getting a swell from the north since we entered the Atlantic. Schippersgracht moves along nicely and then she takes a hard lean to port. A bit disconcerting when in the top bunk. It can also make a trip down the hall look like you had just left a holiday party after one too many. Speaking of the holidays, Christmas decorations appeared in the mess and rec room including a big Santa and a Christmas tree today.
Clocks moved back 1 hr.
December 3, 2135 MILES TO GO
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| It couldn't be all sunshine! |
King goes to the mess for dinner. I pass and make up a bowl of mixed fruit from what we have brought along from Ostinato and some leftover grapes from our dinner yesterday. We managed to get in a couple of games of Rummy-O and actually stay up until 2200.
Movie: Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy
December 4 - 1778 MILES TO GO
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| Catching some fresh air on deck |
The Captain had informed us the weather should begin to improve overnight so we were a bit disappointed to wake up to white caps and the swell continuing to come in from the north. We haven’t been outside for 2 days and were looking forward to a walk on deck. By mid day it had improved enough that we were able to poke our heads out for a short stroll. It’s warm enough that we can create makeshift seats at midship where we can take off our coats and let the sunshine warm our winter bodies. We are not the only one’s out on deck this afternoon. Crew stop by on their way to the bow to say hello. Many of these guys are away from home for ten months at a time as the ship takes cargo back and forth across the Atlantic. I find the moaning of the ship a bit disconcerting as it moves against the waves. Hmmmm time to go in?
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| Notice the white cloth. Crew added this to all of the yachts to protect from marks off the yellow lines. Nice touch. |
King wants a cup of tea so we stop in the Rec Room. The putrid smell coming out of the Galley is a concern as I had not opted out of the 5:30 meal. YUCK! The Engineers straggled into the Rec with mischievous grins on their faces……All except, that is, the poor crew who ended up with a face full of whatever had been fermenting in the galley's drains. Today was clean out the galley’s waste drain day. A job for Engineering it appears. It’s apparently been blocked for a bit. No more! All doors are open in an attempt to clear the smell but the Chef graciously closed them during the evening meal.
Movie: The Fault In Our Stars
Clocks moved backed 1 hr.
December 5 - 1341 MILES TO GO
The swell is apparently going to ride along with us all the way across the Atlantic. As I laid in my bunk this morning, I began to question why we think babies like this side to side motion. I’m certainly finding nothing relaxing about it. The winds have moved around to our stern so besides the irregular swell that means you are always walking up or down hill and never know exactly when that direction might change, it’s a smooth ride. The morning skies are full of rain on the horizon but by noon (by what time zone, I have no clue) a solid pale blue has nudged out all but only a few of the most stubborn of the heavy gray clouds.
While the door to the galley remains open this morning, you still don’t want to hang out in there. Whew! Even Chef is making himself scarce. After breakfast, we walked down to level one to check out the washing machine status. Too bad…..all full.
King learned last night that Ostinato would be one of the first to be taken off the ship when we reach St. Thomas. With that news, it was time to think seriously about where we would spend the night, replenish groceries, and put Ostinato back together again. Well, that’s what King thought about. I starting thinking about Christmas and that it was only a month before we fly home. So much to do!
The smell was back at lunch making it a bit unappetizing. I took my tea in the Rec area of the mess.
King scheduled a date to explore the engine rooms this afternoon. I passed that up for a date with my latest audio book, later learning that I had missed climbing 3 stories down into the bowels of the ship where the temps are 100°+ to look at large greasy engine parts while wearing ear protectors. I apparently just don’t know how to have fun. (Editors Note: That’s the truth!)
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| The engine room! |
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| I finally gave in and did laundry |
December 6 - 904 MILES TO GO
White caps today but the wind is at our stern giving the ship an easy sway. Its safe to go into the kitchen again so at breakfast, I did my usual snoop about the galley to see what’s cooking for lunch (yes, you are correct, we don’t have enough to do). I spot a pot boiling on the stove…..soup! The Chef shares his secret. He makes his own stock. No bouillon for him. One of mother’s lessons that had been long forgotten in life’s daily rush.
A trip up to the bridge after breakfast to chat with the Captain and see the sea from a different prospective. Latest predictions have us in St. Thomas about 10:00 Saturday morning. On our visit to Ostinato we take our backpacks, stuffed full of the heavy winter clothing we needed at the beginning of the trip. We wont be needing those things for a bit. The weather has already turned balmy.
We go to dinner to get out of the cabins and for the opportunity to talk to someone besides ourselves but the dinner crowd has progressively gotten smaller and smaller. Just too darn early! We are back in our cabin by 6:00 PM. King is transferring photos and movies to a hard drive so the computer is busy which means no movie....looks like a Rummy-O kinda night again.
Clocks moved back 1 hr
December 7 - 494 MILES TO GO
Our first activity each morning is to check the ship’s mileage to St. Thomas. The closer we get the harder it is for me to lay quietly in the top bunk waiting for King to wake up, especially on time change days. This is the down side to an early riser vs a late nighter. One more day!!!
After breakfast, we move another load of unneeded “stuff” via backpacks to Ostinato. As we move across the deck, we dodge spray from the fresh water hoses the crew are using to rinse off the sea salt which has attached itself to the yachts. We continue to be impressed with the care they take with their cargo.
King has decided he wants to give the dingy, which is on life support status, another go at repair. He has an idea……which I knew immediately would somehow include me. The job today: turning the dinghy over so he can search one last spot for the leak. I have to give him credit, he has found two leaks so far and the dinghy will now hold air for about a 1/2 day. This is a big improvement but still not enough to provide transportation when Ostinato is at anchor until we get back to the State’s. But I digress….did I mention that this turn over operation would be conducted on Ostinato's bow which is sitting 10 foot off the deck of a rocking ship traveling at 17 K in a 20 K wind with following seas? Hmmmm. It was actually an easy job. King had rigged pulleys and lines that moved the beast over with the grace of a ballet dancer. Once the dingy is flipped, I return to the cabin before he had time to think up something else I can do. Lunch is in three hours, with a little luck this job will keep him busy till then.
Lunch was full of news. First, King reported over lunch that he had located and patched the last of three leaks in the dinghy. No idea until its inflated to know if all is good but I'm guessing it can’t hurt. After lunch, while we were apologizing to the Captain for drinking his private stock of water during meals, he informed us that tomorrow we will anchor and the ship would launch the life boats in a drill…..but we were too old to participate! This was our first time we had been told we couldn't do something because of our age but it went along with the last minute request for medical clearance required before we got final approval to join the ship. It ended up the water wasn’t his and to soften the blow to us about missing out on the life raft ride, he invited us up to the bridge for the best seats to watch the show. We understand Corporate's concern but we are likely in better shape than a lot of 50 year olds, or at least we like to think. Regardless, neither of us intend to start acting our age any time soon despite what my physician brother tells King to do every time he works on him.
Even with all that, the biggest news was it looks like we will have one more day on the ship. ETA is expected early Saturday afternoon but we will not have access to a dock until late afternoon, after the departure of a cruise ship. The Captain would prefer to wait until morning to unload, when his crew is fresh. We agree.
Movie: 15 min of Alien Nation, 30 min of 500 Days…..and a couple of games of Rummy-O
December 8 – 75 MILES TO GO (0600)
We awoke to rain showers this morning. While the sun appears to be doing its best to break through the cloud cover, its a 50/50 prospect right now. After breakfast, we head to the bridge. King has spotted a small sliver of land…..internet can’t be far behind! Like magic, the rain stops and the first of multiple rainbows appears ahead of us. I’m taking that for a good omen. The Captain decides its good luck to have us on the bridge. We head to an anchorage on the south side of Water Island to wait for space at the dock.
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| Greeted in St Thomas by rainbows. A good omen |
Finally, we hear the familiar ding of the arrival of email and messages. King has a missed call from the Maritime Agent that will help with our paperwork to transfer off the ship. She has arranged to pick us up at 8:30 tomorrow morning to get us through Customs….bring your suitcase filled with something….a bit odd but OK. Docking time is scheduled for 1750.
The release of the life raft has been aborted due to rough seas. We were disappointed. Watching the drill had been our planned afternoon activity. Now what? Instead, King begins making contacts with marinas. We had decided if we can find something reasonable it would make life easier, reprovisioning, putting on water and getting Ostinato put back together again.
Just before 1700, the engines begin to rumble again. I head to the bridge so I can get a better view of the docking. King is roaming around the ship but sure enough within minutes he pops up too. Finally, the cruise ship has left the dock and we learn the Pilot will join us as soon as that ship has cleared the entrance. The choreography was perfect. Seconds after the cruise ship comes into view, a Pilot Boat races towards us and within minutes ….Poof!….the Pilot is standing in the Bridge. As magically as he arrived, he is gone and a tug is pulling and pushing us into the dock. We have arrived! Yippee!
Of course, while we are “here”, we still can’t leave the ship. The Captain advises us at dinner that Immigration will be on board soon and we will be called when needed. In the meantime, we finish packing up what hasn’t already been returned to Ostinato over the last few days. It will be a much easier load tomorrow morning compared with our arrival ten days ago. Was it really ten days!?
Finally, the call came. We were to report to the Rec Room. There we found the entire crew assembled, the Captain, the Agent and an Immigration Officer. They had saved us till last so our wait was brief. The question of our trip to Immigration in the morning was posed by the Agent. The problem was we were spending the night on the ship but the Immigration Officer didn’t think it mattered. A quick phone call confirmed it wasn’t necessary. We were good to go.
It was a Rummy-O kinda night.
December 9 – AT DOCK - St. Thomas
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| The last of the paperwork is signed as they prepare to unload Ostinato |
The straps have already been secured under the big 72ft Catamaran that laid behind us. It’s show time! While our neighbor was being lifted to the water, we got busy pulling out fenders and attaching them along Ostinato's port side where she will lay against the ship once unloaded. If things can go wrong, they will. The 72 foot Cat's port prop refused to come to life. While the crew continued prepping for the next yacht to be lifted, we watched the clock tick and wondered how long this might hold us up. Finally, the Cat limped away under one engine. Not an easy feat for a Catamaran. The next yacht, a monohull, was delivered back to the water in without a hitch.
It was finally our turn. King was shooed away and we sat on the sidelines as Ostinato was lifted....and then - it stopped! The crane being used was not the same one she was lifted on with. The crew noticed she wasn't sitting in the straps as well. Longer straps were added. They worked for what seemed like hours to get her as perfect in the straps as possible. At last she began to move to the side. A sigh of relief.......then she stopped again!!!
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| Ballast leans the ship to port |
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| PUSH!!! |
At this point, King was very glad we were fully insured and was actually quite calm during the whole process. He asked the first officer why the crane was acting up and he responded "old ship, may be it needs an adjustment".
Then, with the crew pushing Ostinato out, they tried lowering her again and miraculously the crane started working properly lowering its boom, keeping off the railing.
King and I quickly descended to the next level and clamored over the ship's sides to Ostinato decks. Within minutes, Ostinato was floating in the water beside the ship. Her engines started, lines were released, and we slowly moved away from the Schippersgracht and her wonderful crew. Ready to start a new adventure!
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| Ostinato is back together again in Francis Bay, St. John |
